View Full Version : damaged skag
04-17-2013, 01:29 PM
I bought a runabout over the winter that had a damaged skag. 1/2 of it was taken off my something the previous owner hit. After a through inspection, I was told the outdrive was in perfect working order, but the skag would probably be good to fix eventually at about $200.
The boat has the volvo bravo I outdrive for the 190 hp 4.3 L V6. Is $200 a fair quote for that?
04-17-2013, 02:37 PM
Depending on how they're fixing it, $200 is an amazing bargain. There are three ways to fix a broken skeg. First is to replace the lower housing. There's no way that would happen for $200. Second way is to weld on more metal similar to repairing a prop. The welding is cheap enough, but you have to take out the lower unit seals the keep from melting them. The second method is cheaper than the first, but $200 is still a bargain for this method. Third, and cheapest, method is to buy a skeg repair kit. It is a hollow skeg that you use epoxy or JB-Weld to glue on to what's left of your old skeg. It sounds cheesy, but it's actually a pretty good fix. It would be $200 or under.
I'd go for #3. I've seen it done many times (our lake has lots of shallow areas) and it doesn't look bad at all. The other thing is if you hit it again you'd be a whole lot less unhappy.
04-17-2013, 05:00 PM
How "damaged" is it? Might be simpler (not to mention cheaper) to just cut/grind the damaged part down and leave the rest. MIGHT affect your steering though.
04-17-2013, 09:11 PM
Grind it up to make it pretty or go with #3. The skeg protects the prop in minor hits. in major hits it doesn't matter. If done right the glue ons also take a decent hit.
04-18-2013, 08:32 AM
Option three - www.skeggard.com. Also, it can't be a Bravo I outdrive and be made by Volvo. Alpha, Bravo I, Bravo II, Bravo III are all Mercruiser.
04-18-2013, 09:31 AM
Thanks for the clarification there eastTN. I was told this would be repaired by welding, which would be option #2 as described above. I had 2 different shops quote me approximately the same amount.
Any other preventative maintenance I should have done while they have the rear torn apart to fix the skeg?
04-18-2013, 12:27 PM
I would re-seal it, change the gear lube, and change the pump impeller. If you wanted to do a skeg repair kit, it looks like the modern way is to bolt rather than glue them. That seems like an improvement to me.
04-18-2013, 02:21 PM
I had to have one of the skegs on my houseboat welded. It was broken off about a half an inch below the gearcase - so a skeggard was not an option. It cost me about $500 including pulling the drive, tearing it down, welding, put it back together, and reinstall.
So, $200 sounds pretty good.
04-19-2013, 07:13 PM
I had one welded back once. I don't remember the initial cost, but i never could get the seals right. Turns out that the lick that broke the skeg also bent the prop shaft. You might wanna check...
04-22-2013, 06:39 AM
I had a dealer do an A to Z inspection on the boat before I bought it. He said the outdrive is in perfect condition. The previous owner said he left the outdrive down when he pulled the boat out of the water, which is what damaged the skeg. I had the boat sitting in the water from Friday evening through late Sunday afternoon 2 weekends ago. When I pulled it out to take it home that evening, I pulled the plug and not even 1 drop came out. It's solid.
I appreciate the feedback guys.