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View Full Version : So about that water in the oil....



JTAlberts
05-28-2013, 05:51 AM
I said to myself this year that I was going to pull my boat in warmer weather so I could do a lot of work. I didn't think that it was going to be the same day I launched it this year.

We put the boat in and I was letting her heat up before taking her out. After warming it up it was completely milky and really full. I am betting on a cracked block. I have decided to bite the bullet and replace both long blocks. Both transmissions are in need of some service as well, so they will be removed and repaired when I do the engines.

So my first question would be:

Do any of you recommend a particular seller of Chrysler 318 Long Blocks? I have found a few that I like their prices, however I am not sure on reputation.

JTAlberts
05-28-2013, 06:03 AM
Also, since this boat is a twin engine, is one engine a reverse rotation engine?

JTAlberts
05-28-2013, 12:57 PM
I have found a guy, who is pretty local, that has two newly rebuilt Chrysler 318s for sale. They are complete engines and are about the same money as two new long blocks. Granted I would just bolt on all my stuff to the new long blocks. So the next question is, do I go with the new long blocks or the complete engines? The long blocks do come with a warranty and these would not.

easttnboater
05-28-2013, 02:01 PM
I would first check the specs of the engines. - especially compression ratio and the cam specs - to make sure they are equal or close to the original motor specs.

If they are both equal, then I would go with the long blocks and the warranty. With all you have gone through with this boat, it just seems the prudent thing to do.

OLD HOUSEBOATER
05-28-2013, 05:21 PM
Chrysler blocks usually DON'T crack. did you pull the heads. How many hours on them. They usually don't even show any bore wear under 1500 hours. Truly they last forever in fresh water.

Jakebg
05-28-2013, 05:50 PM
Could maybe be head gasket,

JTAlberts
05-28-2013, 07:21 PM
OHB,

I have no clue on the hours. I have not pulled the heads. I am at a crossroads with the engines. What would you suggest? I want to the engines fixed and trustworthy. I have no confidence in either. Do you think it might be a head gasket? Both transmissions need work and the only way to get them out is to pull the engines.

Fork-lift-king
05-29-2013, 05:58 AM
First, I would find out where the water is coming from. Remove all of the spark plugs from the wet engine. Have someone crank the engine while you a watching for water being blown out of the spark plug holes. When you find water on one side, Then pull the water cooled manifold and have it pressure checked. If it checks out good then pull the head and have it pressure checked. If you decide to install new engines HAVE all of the manifolds pressure checked before installing them, Good luck.

JTAlberts
05-29-2013, 08:09 AM
When I go to take out the transmissions, this is a part that I know nothing about. Removing the shaft log and stuffing box. Here is a picture of one:

http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q359/jtalberts/Kingscraft%2040/IMG-20120227-00118.jpg (http://s348.photobucket.com/user/jtalberts/media/Kingscraft%2040/IMG-20120227-00118.jpg.html)

The starboard one drips a decent amount as I bet the packing hasn't been changed in some time. I am not sure about the port. Besides the packing, is there anything else I should be concerned about with these and look to replace them? I am not really sure what I should be looking for.

OLD HOUSEBOATER
05-29-2013, 08:30 AM
1. If the engines were running decent last year I SURELY would NOT rush into the expense of replacement.
318's are almost bullit proof. If you keep the manifolds up and the distributor advance/springs in free and unbroken condition, you can't wear them out.

2. Follow FLK's advice before even thinking about replacement. I can have heads off a 318 in an hour and a half. You have a large enough engine compartment to work on them with no problem.

3. If the source of the leak is found and the bores are good make necessary repairs and run the boat.

What is wrong with transmissions? I assume you have Paragons with Vee Drives. Other than U joints after 1200 hours these things hold up pretty good.

Are you sure you don't have enough clearance to pull the tranny without pulling the engine?

3 of our 7 houseboats had 318's. The only one that failed was from a freeze in Alabama in 1987. Busted WIDE open.

JTAlberts
05-29-2013, 08:45 AM
If the head is cracked on the engine, do I just order new heads? Is there any concern with them being newer than the block? Keep in mind I am not an engine guy.

The port transmission leaks transmission fluid into the V drive. I believe that it just needs its gaskets replaced. The starboard has a "dirty neutral". The prop shaft spins when in neutral. This might be a release sping or forward clutch plate. It also tends to burn up its tranny fluid. Don't give me credit on the transmission troubleshooting, those conclusions were in the manual.

OLD HOUSEBOATER
05-29-2013, 09:17 AM
1. The GOOD - The alignment is good witnessed by the fact the coupling is not loose on the shaft and there is NO metal dust under the assembly.

2. The BAD - the setup has the power unit too close to the shaft log making repacking the log almost impossible. Usually there is 2 or 3 inches of clearance. Try tightening the packing nut to stop the leak. If this doesn't work :

A. Determine the condition of the shaft log connecting hose. If its OK you won't have to pull the coupling fro the shaft. (BIG DEAL)

B. You will have to disconnect the shaft coupling from the transmission. MAKE SURE YOU USE A 6 POINT SOCKET OR BOX WRENCH to loosen the 4 capscrews. DO NOT even consider 12 points as these puppys are TOUGH to get loose. If you round off the heads get a grinder and grind them off.

C. Raise and block the rear of the transmission/engine assembly or pull it out. If the shaft log hose is Ok you can pull the shaft ahead and replace the packing.

D. If you have to remove the coupling from the shaft you have to remove the 2 setscrews (Joke - they will twist off) They will have to be drilled out suggest carbide drill bit. If you have the engine out you will have room for a heavy duty shaft puller. If not use a piece of 1/2 X 2 bar stock with 2 holes and a socket with 2 bolts to press it off. (The sucker is on there good) Yards just cut the shaft off with a Sawzall and replace the whole thing. I could never afford that.
An alternative is to get a bunch of discs for your grinder - cut grooves in it and get it off that way. Coupling halves are not that expensive. ( This is what I would do)

Been there done that.

RESIST THE URGE TO REPLACE THE SHAFT LOGS WITH DRIPLESS.

JTAlberts
05-29-2013, 12:56 PM
So on that note, I should probably go ahead and repack them if both transmissions are being taken out of the boat.

Fork-lift-king
05-29-2013, 03:03 PM
If you have a cracked head, most automotive machine shop will have used 'rebuilt' heads. You will check the casting number on your old head to get the correct one.

OLD HOUSEBOATER
05-29-2013, 04:45 PM
For Sure!!!!!

JTAlberts
05-29-2013, 07:15 PM
My buddy has a pair of heads from a 318 that he took off a 318 with a bad crank. Would those work or should I look elsewhere? Do I have to tear the engine apart to find the cast number on the head?

JTAlberts
05-29-2013, 07:44 PM
Well, from all the other internet digging I could do, everything pointed elsewhere than the block.

1. Cracked intake manifold
2. Cracked exhaust manifold
3. Blown head gasket
4. Cracked head
5. Cracked or rusted out timing cover

If the heads that my buddy has will work, I am going to pull the exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, and heads. We will replace all the gaskets as we go and replace the heads. We will then drain the oil and change the filter. Hopefully I can get the marina to drop my back end in the water so that I can run the engine and get it nice warm. If not, I will have to be pouring water in the intake for a good while to validate it is clear. How long do I need to run the engine to make sure the new oil is through the system and cleaning it out?

JTAlberts
05-31-2013, 07:06 PM
Well I am putting the boat in tomorrow. I changed the exhaust manifolds last year, due to other reasons, and I didn't change my oil. I changed the oil and ran the engine on a hose for about 30 minutes today. I am all clear so far. I was seeing a minute drop of milkiness but it didnt get worse. I am going to put in tomorrow, run the boat for a bit and see how it looks. I plan on changing the oil 2 more times when I get docked.

JTAlberts
05-31-2013, 08:21 PM
Also, while awaiting my helper today, whom never showed, I replaced my thermostat housing gaskets. My starboard engine's thermostat appears to be stuck open. I just ordered 4 of them. I like to have spare parts on hand.

OLD HOUSEBOATER
05-31-2013, 08:25 PM
Re transmission problems. put some "Seal conditioner " in the leaker. Clean the transmission cooler on the hot one. Minor rotation in neutral - don't worry about it if it doesn't slip under load. (in gear)

JTAlberts
06-01-2013, 06:11 PM
Well all is well. I brought the boat down river to our docks. Oil still looks perfect. I will do the transmission maintenance this week.