If the head is cracked on the engine, do I just order new heads? Is there any concern with them being newer than the block? Keep in mind I am not an engine guy.
The port transmission leaks transmission fluid into the V drive. I believe that it just needs its gaskets replaced. The starboard has a "dirty neutral". The prop shaft spins when in neutral. This might be a release sping or forward clutch plate. It also tends to burn up its tranny fluid. Don't give me credit on the transmission troubleshooting, those conclusions were in the manual.
1. The GOOD - The alignment is good witnessed by the fact the coupling is not loose on the shaft and there is NO metal dust under the assembly.
2. The BAD - the setup has the power unit too close to the shaft log making repacking the log almost impossible. Usually there is 2 or 3 inches of clearance. Try tightening the packing nut to stop the leak. If this doesn't work :
A. Determine the condition of the shaft log connecting hose. If its OK you won't have to pull the coupling fro the shaft. (BIG DEAL)
B. You will have to disconnect the shaft coupling from the transmission. MAKE SURE YOU USE A 6 POINT SOCKET OR BOX WRENCH to loosen the 4 capscrews. DO NOT even consider 12 points as these puppys are TOUGH to get loose. If you round off the heads get a grinder and grind them off.
C. Raise and block the rear of the transmission/engine assembly or pull it out. If the shaft log hose is Ok you can pull the shaft ahead and replace the packing.
D. If you have to remove the coupling from the shaft you have to remove the 2 setscrews (Joke - they will twist off) They will have to be drilled out suggest carbide drill bit. If you have the engine out you will have room for a heavy duty shaft puller. If not use a piece of 1/2 X 2 bar stock with 2 holes and a socket with 2 bolts to press it off. (The sucker is on there good) Yards just cut the shaft off with a Sawzall and replace the whole thing. I could never afford that.
An alternative is to get a bunch of discs for your grinder - cut grooves in it and get it off that way. Coupling halves are not that expensive. ( This is what I would do)
Been there done that.
RESIST THE URGE TO REPLACE THE SHAFT LOGS WITH DRIPLESS.
So on that note, I should probably go ahead and repack them if both transmissions are being taken out of the boat.
If you have a cracked head, most automotive machine shop will have used 'rebuilt' heads. You will check the casting number on your old head to get the correct one.
My buddy has a pair of heads from a 318 that he took off a 318 with a bad crank. Would those work or should I look elsewhere? Do I have to tear the engine apart to find the cast number on the head?
Well, from all the other internet digging I could do, everything pointed elsewhere than the block.
1. Cracked intake manifold
2. Cracked exhaust manifold
3. Blown head gasket
4. Cracked head
5. Cracked or rusted out timing cover
If the heads that my buddy has will work, I am going to pull the exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, and heads. We will replace all the gaskets as we go and replace the heads. We will then drain the oil and change the filter. Hopefully I can get the marina to drop my back end in the water so that I can run the engine and get it nice warm. If not, I will have to be pouring water in the intake for a good while to validate it is clear. How long do I need to run the engine to make sure the new oil is through the system and cleaning it out?
Well I am putting the boat in tomorrow. I changed the exhaust manifolds last year, due to other reasons, and I didn't change my oil. I changed the oil and ran the engine on a hose for about 30 minutes today. I am all clear so far. I was seeing a minute drop of milkiness but it didnt get worse. I am going to put in tomorrow, run the boat for a bit and see how it looks. I plan on changing the oil 2 more times when I get docked.
Also, while awaiting my helper today, whom never showed, I replaced my thermostat housing gaskets. My starboard engine's thermostat appears to be stuck open. I just ordered 4 of them. I like to have spare parts on hand.
Re transmission problems. put some "Seal conditioner " in the leaker. Clean the transmission cooler on the hot one. Minor rotation in neutral - don't worry about it if it doesn't slip under load. (in gear)