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Thread: What did you do to your houseboat today.

  1. #151
    Senior Member easttnboater's Avatar
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    You also probably have anti-reversion valves in the connector at the top of the tank. I removed all of mine.

  2. #152
    Member Frantically Relaxing's Avatar
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    I may have isolated the problem, more on that later...

    I do have anti-backflow valves on the tank(s), but since I'm using one tank with 3 engines at the moment, I figure it's best to be sure all the lines & pumps are full and primed...

    No problem with the venting-- I'm drawing 3 fuel lines off the same tank, and I've done it in every configuration I can think of:

    all three lines from one line using 2 T's--
    all three from 2 lines (my tanks have 2 exits) with the genny teed to one of the engines & opposite engine dedicated, tried that with both engines--
    all three from 2 lines with the genny dedicated and the engines teed together--
    ---this was before the new fuel filter (which looks like this)

    this weekend I did everything the same as above, except I ran ONE incoming line to the filter housing and 2-outgoing lines to the 3 engines--

    -- results are the same, no matter how I connect the lines: the Merc's get gas and run fine. The Genny will sometimes get gas and run for a few minutes (nearly 10 minutes yesterday) then it runs out of gas and dies. And this is with 2 of the 3 pumps, I haven't been using my 'original' pump, the one that looks like an inline filter, because I've assumed it was bad. I'm thinking it's probably NOT bad--

    I've heard SOOOoo many generator stories that sound just like this one: runs for a few minutes then dies--

    NOW, having said all that-- yesterday after changing pumps again, this time I put in a clear inline filter so I could SEE what was going on. I did the change after the genny ran 10 minutes and died. Once the fuel line & filter were on, the filter became half full just on gravity. When I pressed the ON button on the genny to activate the pump, the pump was pulling some of the gas from the filter towards the carb, but that was all-- as soon as I let off the switch the gas returned to the filter. Did that every time. Pulled about 1/3 of the fuel that was in the filter (maybe a teaspoon).

    And one more thing, I bought a primer bulb to help troubleshoot-- it sucks and pumps gas from all the lines just fine. So no obstructions from tank-to-pump that I can find.

    SO! This tells me that the pump is TRYING to suck gas, but it can't push it into the carb, ergo, my problem is AFTER the pump! The original pump-to-carb hard-line and my extra rubber test line are fine--

    So, either there's a small filter in the carb after the fuel line connector (have no idea, anyone??) and it may be plugged or real close to it,

    OR, gas can't enter the bowl because the needle valve won't open or is semi-plugged up, for whatever reason. I have a lawnmower that the carb won't take gas, and I keep finding the float stuck UP even when the bowl is empty--? I free it and it works fine for half a tank of gas then does it again. Not sure why it's doing that, but it's about 20 years old--

    Anyway, that will be my next step, dig into the carb and see what I find...
    Last edited by Frantically Relaxing; 07-22-2013 at 02:38 PM.
    1988 SkipperLiner 53x14
    1995 Tracker Party Cruiser 32 *for sale*
    2003 Chaparral 260 SSI
    2000 Allegro Bus 40' DP

  3. #153
    Super Moderator OLD HOUSEBOATER's Avatar
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    Try puting your fuel pump before the filter. They will pass a lot of crap so don't worry about plugging them unless you have heavy contamination in your tank.
    Some of these pumps heat up if they aren't full of fuel and quit pumping
    The fries are cold so we gave you extra.

  4. #154
    Senior Member Stmbtwle's Avatar
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    Replacing the exhaust hoses. Anyone know of something I can use so I don't have to cut the hoses off next time?
    She's a tired old barge but she's paid for... http://s71.beta.photobucket.com/user...24993.pbw.html

  5. #155
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    I used this silver anti seize I bought at lowes.

  6. #156
    Super Moderator OLD HOUSEBOATER's Avatar
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    I used dish soap, but i never owned a boat long enough for the hoses to "grab" and be hard to remove. The old mechanic at the marina used Silicone spray that we used to lubricate window seals and door rubbers with, back in the day.
    The fries are cold so we gave you extra.

  7. #157
    Senior Member Stmbtwle's Avatar
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    Anti-seize of some kind is what I need I think, I'll check Lowes. I have some never-seize but it has copper in it which might react with the aluminum components. Was thinking of maybe lithium grease. Dish soap helps with assembly but I don't think it sticks around long.

    I wouldn't be doing it but my water pump failed and the wet exhaust overheated, one piece of hose actually collapsed (oddly the section at the transom, 6' from the engine), so I felt it necessary to disassemble it all and check for further damage. Components are stuck together to the point they had to be cut apart, which of course means I have to replace them damaged or not.
    She's a tired old barge but she's paid for... http://s71.beta.photobucket.com/user...24993.pbw.html

  8. #158
    Member Zilpo55's Avatar
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    Spent rainy Sunday in the hold

    Corrected lousy workmanship on head and Purisan system by previous owner or hired goof ball. Discovered one tube connected to the wrong fitting and another not connected at all. This explained the faint sewer odor we were trying to track down. Now, I have to replace broken fittings that fell apart when we touched them because they were previously broken and glued. I wasn't too upset by this until I got home and ordered the replacement part for $85. A lousy plastic part. I would have bet $20 tops.

  9. #159
    Super Moderator OLD HOUSEBOATER's Avatar
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    I sold a RiverQueen Star Stream a few years ago. The Pump failed and burnt an exhaust hose. River Queen exhausts were right at the waterline. ,It sunk in 15 feet of water.

    If your hose got baked that bad, it's possible that nothing you put on it would make it easy to get off.

    Did you notice how cheap exhaust hose is today? Bummer.
    The fries are cold so we gave you extra.

  10. #160
    Senior Member Stmbtwle's Avatar
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    Yeah I know... I paid $28 a foot for 4" wire reinforced hose, nearly $200 worth.

    Not too concerned about it sinking even though the exhaust IS at the waterline. I have 3 bilge pumps in the engine room alone (total about 3000 gph) AND a nice loud alarm that I can hear from my bedroom. I'm pretty sure I can get to it before the battery bank dies.
    She's a tired old barge but she's paid for... http://s71.beta.photobucket.com/user...24993.pbw.html

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