9 days ago I had my 1978 36' Gibson Standard pulled for the winter. I used dry stack type marina this year. After the boat sat for a couple days I was still emptying some items and noticed the closet door was binding. Later I noticed the back door didn't shut properly. Today I went back and found the window that faces the stern in the salon area was shattered and glass was all over the floor

I suspect the problems are due to the manner in which the hull is supported. They used one of their standard "cradles" that is basically 2 big boards (maybe 4" x 12") that are at least 15 feet long under the keel and then put a stack of concrete blocks under the back of the starboard and port side at the transom.

Is this adequate support? I sense a kind of "frown" in the boat as the center seems higher than the sides. The boat didn't make any noises as it was being lifted from the water, nor while sitting on the forks. As they set it down on the supports previously listed, I heard a couple popping sounds, but it didn't seem unreasonable.

The boat is in great shape for its age and even the lift operator remarked that the hull was very sound.

Has anyone else had problems of this nature? Are these due to inaddequate support or something else?

Thanks for your help.

Doesn't sound "adequate" to me. Any time my boat is hauled it is supported along the keel and several jack stands along the chines. I think you might want to take some pictures, call a surveyor, and a lawyer. And get some more blocking in so the damage doesn't get any worse.

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Willie
She's a tired old barge but she's paid for! http://s71.photobucket.com/alb...p;current=ef324993.pbw

I once wanted to purchase a beautiful 19 foot tri hull. Upon sea trial, it would not plain. It had been keep on the trailer and was tied down. The hull in fact warped. Everytime it would attempt to plain it would nose dive. The fiberglass had strained and the hull would never again be the same.

Correct supporting of a vessel out of water is very important. Permanent damages maybe occurring. Willie describes the way my Gibson is supported when out of the water. Take action NOW!

Good Luck.

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Banana Tom

I have never seen a houseboat stack stored. Call Gibson then come back and tell us what they said.

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OLD HOUSEBOATER

While my 42' was on trailer, everything stayed in alignment/ Sliding windows ,doors, etc. While the keel was unsupported, the edges were fully supported.
These are plastic boats, sounds like a droop somewhere.

Does Gibson reply to anyone? I've had no luck with phone calls or emails. I've not been very impressed with their customer service dept.

Is this the first time you have used dry dock storage for the winter? Does it still have to be winterized? Although we would not haul out our boat for storage, we will have to have it hauled out for the survey. Sounds like the expertise of the marina and the equipment they use is of major importance. Surely your marina will be insured but that is of little consequence What a shame to have damage happen by those you trust when all you are trying to do is protect your boat.

BamaBoater on the Tennessee River

I suppose I will wade in on this problem. A 1978 Gibson 36 should be 12' wide. I can see someone in a particular area wanting to dry stack it but not very practical. In many areas these boats have to be stored on shore because of freezing waters. The best way to pull one out is to use a rail where the keel is completely supported and extra support is under the chines. Unfortunately this setup allows a boat to be pulled for repair but does not allow it to be moved to a particular place for storage. This is generally done with a cradle lift using straps. On a Gibson you need to use double straps and if they are not properly placed you can easily pop out a window. When using a cradle lift to set a boat up for dry storage once you place it on the ground you still need to support the keel well and use jackstands to support the chines and you need some power source if possible to keep a fan and heater on just to keep the mildew down. Also I see no way that a large dry stack facility could afford to heat that large area and still charge a reasonable price so you must winterize everything and still you will have some minor freezing problems when you go to refloat her. Finally, Gibson seems to have some restart problems like everyone else but I have had good results in calling them for help in the parts department even when I was not buying anything.

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The Judge Rules


Edited: 11/12/2007 at 02:25:58 PM by TheJudge

Years ago I was told by someone at Gibson that when on land the boat should not be supported by the keel. Use jackstands.

the problem you mention is not that uncommon with all fiberglass houseboats to some extent when they are pulled and blocked, however it seams to be a bigger issue with older gibsons and carlcrafts, especially if they where not properly blocked. At the marina my brother owns they usually block boats like that at both rear corners, on the sides at the front corners of the pilot house. and at the front of the keel. for larger boats (40ft and up) the would also block the hull and keel at the step down from the pilothouse(or split the difference for a single floor plan).
i have seen 2 boats have the keel blocks punch through the bottoms of boats bue to improper blocking. But even if you boat is properly blocked you will still get some flexing from the hull.



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UC FANS
1999, 52' Monticello - Miller Tyme
Port of Aurora IN

ABYC has a well written set of standards for blocking boats in yards. Even though ABYC standards are only suggestions they carry far more weight than that in court.
I remember two situations with boats falling. One sustained a lot of damage and the other was not to bad. Both were not blocked to ABYC "suggestions". Both were repaired by the marinas insurance companies and never went to court. They would have lost and knew it.
The Marina I work for abtained the ABYC CD right after that to make sure we were in "suggested" compliance. For the most part we were but still had to make a few changes. We learned a few things in an area we thought we knew.
It would be wise for your marina to purchase the book because they owe you for any damage if they are not compliant.....period.

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sideways

Sorry for your problem. Gibsons have to be supported on the Chines. The Chine is the strongest part of a Gibson. That is no way to support it. Get the boat back in the water, let hull settle for 3 days and block it right. Keel and stands under chine every 8 ft.

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The pirate

The documentation that was with my boat had a blocking diagram which basically shows major blocking at the transom and each bulkhead at the chines and spread over a 3 ft area then shim blocking at the front and back of the keel after the major blocking is completed.

I would be glad to send an e-mail with it attached to anyone that might find it useful.

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Graybear
'88 Holiday Mansion aft cabin 38 ft
twin Volvo duo-props 350 engines
Flaming Gorge, UT

Edited: 11/14/2007 at 08:56:54 AM by graybear

Answers to a couple questions:
Yes, this is the first year I've used this facility. Previously had been stored at a facility with a travel lift. It seemed to make a lot more noise when lifted in the past. It only made a couple noises when the forks were removed this year.

Attached is a photo showing how it is blocked.

I called a surveyor. He told me to call my insurance provider and either my insurance or the marina's insurance would request a survey. My insurance adjustor visited the marina today (with me).

As I climbed in the boat today, I noted instantly the back door was working properly. I then checked the closet and it worked freely. Just two days ago, it wouldn't come close to closing. The marina manager says two different staff people climbed on the boat, but never went inside. One fidgeted with the back door a little and they are trying to convince me it was off it's track. I purposely took it off the track today and couldn't duplicate the look of the photo from Monday (besides, I'm not that stupid as not to know when a door is off the track).

I suspected the boat had been lifted and reset, but if they did it, they did a damn good job of making everything look the same as the photos I'd taken before informing them of any problem. The staff denies having relifted the boat, but there are tracks in the gravel that look awefully fresh. Would lifting and resetting the boat in the same position have changed anything?

The marina is happy to change the supports to whatever I want. I'm inclined not to change anything now as liability would then be shifting to me. Your thoughts?

Any yes, the engines have already been drained.

i would go with what pirate gave as the proper whay to block a gibson since he is the most knowledgable person you can find other than Carl Gibson himself ( may he rest in peace). But i would get back in touch with the insurance adjuster before doing that to get his OK just in case he needs to get pictures of how it is blocked.



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UC FANS
1999, 52' Monticello - Miller Tyme
Port of Aurora IN

I am no expert but that looks like a poor way to set a Gibson. Those runners are not supporting the keel or the chines. I think the thing could collapse under its own weight that way. If you have ever drilled through the bottom of a Gibson, they are not known for their thickness of glass in the hull.

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The Judge Rules

Update.

The marina lifted and changed the blocking slightly before my visit with the insurance adjustor. The replaced the 4x6 block of wood hitting the hull with a 6x6. Apparently that 2 inches caused the binding and ultimately the window to break. Marina is currently deciding how to proceed. I told them of my concern about unknown damages. They didn't seem to think there were any and keep bringing up it is a 30 year old boat. I'm thinking of leaving the cribbing the way they've done it so as keep them on the hook in the event we find something bigger is wrong. Supposedly they talked with Gibson and described the setup and got Gibson's blessing that it adequate.

They will be closing for the season before Thanksgiving, so if I'm going to have them change anything, they'll need to do it soon.

I'm not clear whose insurance adjuster ? Yours for the insured HB or their's? Seems he/she would have guidelines or requirements for blocking, that will protect their company.
Take pictures! lots of them. That is better than watching your boat warp, just to keep them on the hook. A hook they are already wiggling off of. Lots of people have 30 year old boats where doors open & windows don't spit out in chards.
The (old?) Pirate done said the proper way to do it. I wouldn't settle for less.
That's your baby up there, yeah?

My 34' Trojan Houseboat has been hualed every year. I block it at the transon and bow and split the difference in betwwen with two more stacks of blocks. All blocks are on the keel. I use 8 jack stands to support the chines. Never had a problem with the boat bending or doors and windows not working. I can send pictures if you would like. The Pirate is right, support about every eight feet will do it.

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1972 Trojan 34' houseboat 'UPACREEK'
16' Lund 40 hp 'PADDLE'
37 years retired military

That boat is not blocked even close to ABYC "suggestions".
The recommendation of 8' centers on stands is a very good way to go.

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sideways