wire and duct tape. (necessary ingredients for this boat) and we
continued westward. After five minutes Captain Pedro asked me
to take the wheel again because he was going back to bed.
Roberto went to bed also. In fact Roberto went to bed three
times that day. That left just me and Pedro# 2 on the
bridge. (That is, whenever he wasn’t sleeping)
We cruised six more hours that day and planned to tie up to a
large can buoy just west of the Port of Borinquen at the west end
of Puerto Rico. As I was leaning over the bow trying to make
fast our line to the buoy, I heard some Spanish spoken and the boat
went in fast reverse with me damn near flying over the bow.
After I recovered Captain Pedro said, “Wee will anchor
instead” I wished that I had known some Spanish cuss words at
the time. We went to bed at midnight and got up to haul
anchor at 3AM in order to cross the infamous Mona Passage, which
has been known to be pretty rough. The trip wasn’t bad
at all.
As we cruised into Samana Bay on the southern side of the
Dominican Republic, Captain Pedro took over the boat and did a
fantastic job of docking the boat under adverse wind
conditions. We were met by two guys with guns trained on us.
They wouldn’t let us off the boat until they made sure of our
identity and our reason for being there. After we were
cleared for entry, the guns were removed and Captain Pedro had a
man come aboard and cook dinner for us. The cook brought
aboard a 15 lb. yammie (like a large white sweet potato) to cook
with dinner. It was delicious. That night the whole
town turned out to party at a nearby local hangout. Several people
were having a good time trying to teach me Spanish. Pedro# 2
had already taught me some Spanish. A dog was “El
Doggo” and a cat was “El Catto” etc. When I
used his language, he rolled all over the boat laughing.
About 3 AM I went back to the boat and slept on the deck of the
tuna tower, where there was a nice breeze. One hour later Captain
Pedro woke me by screaming my name very loud, over and over.
He didn’t know where I was and feared that maybe I had tried
to abandon ship again. We reluctantly left this fun place at
4 AM and headed east around the east end of the Dominican
Republic. The steering broke again after about 5 minutes of
running. More panic, more duct tape and more wire, and then
we were on our way. The scenery was beautiful with sandy
beaches, steep hills and palm trees. We had a rolly polly
ride of about 125 miles ahead of us. The depth of the ocean
was so impressive that I decided to make an experiment. I
filled a coke can and sunk it. I calculated the can would not
hit bottom for about three hours. Then Pedro# 2 came up on the
bridge and commented, “Hey, did you notice all the nice
Mommies in Samana Bay?”
Roberto and Captain Pedro went back to bed. (Guess who was
steering) I actually enjoyed steering from the bridge, so I
had no complaints. When I had to pee I would call for Pedro#
2 to take the wheel with his one hand, while the other was holding
his rum and coke. We backed into a dock at Puerto Plata at 5
PM. The apparent friendliness of the island changed
demonstrably. Two tough looking hombres aimed guns at us
until we answered several questions, gave them some cash and a
bottle of liquor. While all this politicking was going on, an
old man on shore was having a heated discussion with Pedro# 2 in
Spanish. In his arms, the man had a cute little goat,
weighing about 20 lbs. I was waiting to go ashore and pet the
goat. As I got ashore and walked up to them, the old man laid
the goat down on the ground and cut his throat. The heated
discussion had been about the price of the goat for our evening
meal. This made me mad; I had never eaten goat before and I
wasn’t about to begin that evening. The rest of the
guys made fun of me until I relented and took a bite. It was
so good that I almost didn’t leave any for the rest of
them.
During our short visit the crew and guests, except for me, went
to town. Every place we docked they went to town and returned
with more food, (which we didn’t need) and more often than
not returned with a present for everyone on board.
Now I understood why it’s called downhill from Puerto Rico
to the USA. The Easterlies would drive 20 foot swells up our
stern, and then we would zoom downhill for 200 yards at a time
until the next swell came along.
At the West Caicos Islands, north of the Dominican Republic, we
went to the house of a friend of Captain Pedro’s to drink and
shoot pool, while some locals delivered fuel to our boat in 50
gallon drums. The people living in the house tried to get
Pedro# 2 to stay and live with them as their local hairdresser and
wig seller. He refused but I do think he was considering it
because he said out loud to everyone, “Some nice Mommies
here, huh?”
The next night we anchored about 30 yards from an uninhabited
island, Plano Cay.
I swam ashore alone, and walked around feeling like Robinson
Crusoe. When I tried to swim back to the boat, I almost
didn’t make it. The current was too strong and kept
pushing me further away from the boat. I yelled several times
for help but no help came,