Does anyone know of a type of bilge pump that will do a better job of keeping water level down in the engine compartment,
I know it was designed that way, but seems to me less mosture the better.

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Mike <BR>lake texoma, 1995 44 gibson standard

There are many good bilge pumps on the market and the first RULE(which is also the name of a pump manufacturer) is that you should always install a higher capacity pump than you think you will need. A little extra money spent now on a higher GPH capacity will be well spent if you ever spring a real leak. Next, you should be aware that NO pump will ever pump out all of the water and keep things perfectly dry because it takes about 2" or more of water to engage a float switch and start the pump and once the float drops down and cuts off then gravity will allow some water in the discharge line to drain back down into the bilge. I always use a water vac to police up if any water is in my bilge. But more importantly we need to talk about why your boat has all this water in the engine compartment. Naturally you will get some drippage from the shaft logs unless you have dripless seals but this is minimal and evaporation will usually take care of this in a hot engine compartment. Any other water is either from an internal leak of a tank or water line or an external leak through the hull. I would want to know what it is. If you suspect an internal leak then pour a bottle of food coloring of your choice(I suggest green or red) into your freshwater holding tank and run some water in the boat. See if you get any color in the bilge. If it was blackwater leaking your nose would have already told you. If you do not see color then you have an external leak which could be a thru hull fitting including rudders and transducers or a compromised hull. Start at the front of the boat as all water when you are underway is forced to the rear engine compartment. You should be able to see every thru hull on a Gibson if you are willing to crawl around. I have done it with someone running the boat at speed because sometimes a boat has to be moving to create enough hydrostatic pressure on the hull for water to come in. Good luck. I believe too that water should remain on the outside only.

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The Judge Rules

I had assumed the water was from the packing glands/shaft logs, but there is more then could be evaporated, I have vacuumed it out but by the next weekend it was back to the bottom of the bilge float.
I'll start looking for another source.
thanks Judge.

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Mike <BR>lake texoma, 1995 44 gibson standard

Is there room to put a catch pan under seal to see if it fills, or water enters elsewhere?

Bob

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I carry a gun because it's too tiring carrying a cop.

If you are vacuuming out and come back the next week to find water this should not be coming through the shaft logs/packing glands as these should only leak when you are underway. Either you have a leak elsewhere or you need to tighten or repack the packing nut. Some people claim they can repack with the boat in the water but I would not try this unless you are experienced and then you should have several pieces of packing precut and ready to go. The problem is if for some reason you cannot get the nut to rethread and water is pouring in the shaft then you will find out how well your present pump works!

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The Judge Rules

I'll try the catch pan Bob, I think the is enough room


Judge, I may try tightening a packing gland but I am not up to replacing it myself. the thought of all the that water coming in send chills down my spine.
I watched a houseboat go down once, it makes your stomach sick.

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Mike <BR>lake texoma, 1995 44 gibson standard

I have repacked hundreds of times in connection with my engines business. On V-drives the access makes things harder, but otherwise, in a shallow-draft boat like a houseboat, there's not as much water coming in as one might imagine, because the clearance between the shaft and the tube is pretty close. Also, close to the surface there's not much pressure. Really, honestly, you have lots of time.

I know the first time it might seem scary but really a breeze if you take it slow and use a few tricks. Mostly emphasis on the patience. Guarantee you will feel invincible after having done one of these tasks: And you'll not have to do it agin, except for occasional adjustments, for many years. The first trick is to use a hook and pick tool kit to pull out the old remnants of packing that stay in the nut. Set costs a few bucks at auto supply. If you fnd the shaft is scored or discolored when you are fishing the old pieces out, then it will probably require a new shaft.

Someone suggested precutting the rings to length, and that is a good idea, as well as pounding the hell out of them, on a block of wood, as they are always too fat to go in there. Wrap the stuff arond the shaft and cut with a good sharp knife on block of wood. Some people even cut 45* ends, but I think that is overkill. Packing is sold by the foot at marine stores. 3/8 diameter is the most popular size. DON"T buy too thin.It's cheap, so if unsure, buy a coupe feet of 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8 so you don't have to go back. With the nut all the way off, the right size matches the thickness of the tube, itself.

I always put in one new ring at a time, adjusting the big nut down sort of loose before backing it off to insert the next ring. , and then putting the next ring in there ( joints staggered 180* on each alternate ring). That way they snug up against each other without air spaces between. Most packing glands only will fit about three rings.

If the nut doesn't want to rethread easily, it is usually a sign that there is debris in the threads, or that the shaft is under a slight bending stress( a sign that coupling alignment may not be perfect--project for another day). Carefully prying the shaft up with a crowbar or standing on it, will allow you to get the nut started each time you add a ring. You can bang on the flats of the big nut some to make it turn easier, once you have got it started. Believe me the nut is tough, can take a little persuasion. . When all the rings are in there, It is important not to tighten up the nut too much at first. Let the thing drip some if possible while spinning the shaft for awhile. maybe an hour, feeling the gland to make sure it is not running hot. It usually takes me about 2-3 tightening sequences before it finally gets right, where it isn't dripping much, if at all. That may take several voyages to get it just right. but once set up right, it should be OK for a long time. Make sure you set up the lock nut ( the other nut) tight, even if you have to tap it tight on the flats with a hammer.

Finally, some people get frustrated because the big nut and locking nut are jammed, right from the get-go. Use of a big hammer and brass drift will jar it loose the first time. After that initial loosening trick, it is easier to do adjustments and locking on the nuts with big wrenches. If all this seems more trouble than it's worth, then I wouldn't blame you for hiring a mechanic to repack, and watch him, so you can do the subsequent fine adjustments. Those boats with the ''Lasdrop" style dripless packing glands don't have to worry about periodic repacking every 5 years or so. Or ever. // cheers// Paul

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lookin' for adventure and the next wild engine!

Awesome engine tamer, thanks.

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Banana Tom

enjinetamer
you should write "how to" books. That was the best set of instructions I'v seen.
job was not ease, but satisfying. thanks

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Mike <BR>lake texoma, 1995 44 gibson standard