10/03/2007 07:07:58 PM
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DaleHollow
Admiral
Posts: 606
Joined: 06/27/2007
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I have trouble starting and engine and getting it to idel, one mechanic said the old engine had dropped a cylinder, I did a compression check on a 150hp - 1988 v6 outboard evinrude, new power pack, new plugs, carb cleaner, all steps I have taken.
Once I get it going it runs fine,
next step is to have the carbs rebuilt if I find out the compression check I did shows they are in line with acceptable range.
if any one knows what I need in the way of aceptable reading for this engine would be helpful.
one side all 3 cylinders were around 90 the other side was 85, I did this test a couple ways one way with all the plugs out as I tested each cylinder, the other way the compression was a little higher checking each cylinder individually and the plug was removed for the individulal cylinder I tested.
fresh gas, new gas line, engine purrrs along in open water, hot battery, cold start the bulb is pumped, the key choke on the ignition is held in for about 10 seconds prior to turning the key, and the cold throtle is pushup a bit, once its cranking IM not holding the choke key in.
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"Come OOON Back............
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10/04/2007 02:45:45 PM
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TheJudge
Admiral
Posts: 282
Joined: 05/01/2006
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I will qualify this answer somewhat by telling you that I am flying blind on the info you have supplied. With that caveat, here goes. If that engines seems to run fine once it is started and warm then it is highly unlikely that you have a cylinder problem. Compression checks are fairly easy as long as you are systematic. I do them by removing one plug at the time, screw in the meter plug and have someone hit the switch(be sure and pull coil wire from distributor first) and turn it over a couple of times and record your reading. This is called a dry test. Do each of the cylinders and see what range you have. Sounds like all of yours are OK. If one or more is below the average then pull that plug again and squirt 30 wt oil in spark plug hole and retest that one. This is a wet test. If adding the oil brings the number up within the average range then you just have worn piston rings on that one. As to your cranking trouble I will hazard a guess as I have the same problem on a 1968 Mercury 1000 Thunderbolt. The electrically operated choke is not closing but about halfway on the 3 two barrels and I have to pull the cowling and have my first mate manually hold it to start. It may be the solenoid that actuates the choke mechanism or simply and adjustment needed. I will let you know when I get around to fixing it. Your idle problem is trying to get those old carbs sychronized.
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The Judge Rules
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10/04/2007 03:29:17 PM
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DaleHollow
Admiral
Posts: 606
Joined: 06/27/2007
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i may have discovered a way of starting it .....going along with what u posted. aFTER priming the bulb if it fails to start i go back and reprime it a few more times, this seemed to work. it may be worth the effort
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"Come OOON Back............
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10/04/2007 04:03:51 PM
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stmbtwle
Admiral
Posts: 2142
Joined: 04/22/2003
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Sounds like carb problems then.
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Willie She's a tired old barge but she's paid for! http://s71.photobucket.com/alb...p;current=ef324993.pbw
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10/05/2007 10:06:50 AM
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Skallywag
Member
Posts: 154
Joined: 09/22/2003
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Originally posted by: DaleHollow
i may have discovered a way of starting it .....going along with what u posted. aFTER priming the bulb if it fails to start i go back and reprime it a few more times, this seemed to work. it may be worth the effort
This is golden information. What you describe here is an indication of a bad primer bulb. If you prime until the bulb is hard, and it doesn't stay hard, replace the bulb and line. If it never gets hard....replace the bulb and line. The bulb itself holds enough fuel to run for about 5 minutes at idle. You may also have a fitting problem. Check the hose fitting and it's male counterpart at the engine.
I had an old Johnson/Evinrude that acted the same as your motor. Hard to start, wouldn't idle right, ran great at higher rpm's. New hose and bulb, replaced both fuel fittings. End of problem for me.
Good luck,
Edd
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Chance Favors The Prepared Mind!
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10/05/2007 06:36:44 PM
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DaleHollow
Admiral
Posts: 606
Joined: 06/27/2007
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I already replaced both ends, then tried a hose off a dock boat just to make sure, so i have the hose side covered. I did question the mechanic when i told him the line i used from the dock boat wasnt as large or wasnt the same diameter as mine would this cause an issue he said only at the high rpm. so right now I will try a new bulb, then the carbs rebuit, is still cheaper than another engine
if anyone is still reading this issue IM not opposed to replacing the engine, I see several boats my size using 90 and 115's back in the era this was a rental the 150 were fairly standard. I know Im taking a chance going with a 3K $ engine when a new one is around 6500.00, so I may try a smaller horsepower
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"Come OOON Back............
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10/06/2007 08:58:41 PM
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johnplatou
Admiral
Posts: 340
Joined: 10/18/2002
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You may want to ask on marineengine.com or aomci.org.
I'm good with old Johnson and Evinrude to about 1970.
I've found on some of my 1960 J%E that the reed valves are
partially open and causes a miss at idle, also the excess oil
return line screens get clogged with internal paint slug from the
new fuels. Getting the reed valves to lay flat and cleaning
the return screens has helped my 1960 vintage
engines.
As for starting, they all start hard, trim under to get gas to run
in crankcase and prime hard, that will usually get them
started.
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Johnplatou
1990 HM 38 with Mercruiser 454 Bravo.Lift Stored, Trailerable, and Fits in garage. One of 9 boats presently owned. Boating experience 45 years and 8000 hours. Trailering Hm 38 16 years and 6000 miles, other trailering 100,000 miles and 39 years.
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10/07/2007 07:17:52 AM
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DaleHollow
Admiral
Posts: 606
Joined: 06/27/2007
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thanks, are the return lines you spoke of something a untrained person can clean out
or is there a fuel additive that will help dislodge this thanks, I have sprayed the carbs through the throat and added a gas line additive for 2 cycle engines
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"Come OOON Back............
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10/07/2007 01:15:45 PM
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stmbtwle
Admiral
Posts: 2142
Joined: 04/22/2003
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If it runs fine once you get it started but doesn't want to start or idle, I'd look into the low speed or idle jets. If they're adjustable screw them down (count the turns) then open them up again, maybe a half-turn further. If they're not adjustable then they may be clogged.
If it's flooding (too much gas) it could be something as simple as a stuck float.... sometimes a whack on the side of the carb can help that.
If you're familiar with taking carburetors apart then a can of spray carb cleaner and a piece of thin stainless fishing leader can work wonders. If you're not mechanically inclined don't try it.
A cheap "maybe" fix would be to hook up a portable tank with a couple gallons of gas and a couple cans of carb cleaner in it and run it through. It might work and it might not, but it's a whole lot cheaper than a mechanic.
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Willie She's a tired old barge but she's paid for! http://s71.photobucket.com/alb...p;current=ef324993.pbw
Edited: 10/07/2007 at 01:23:52 PM by stmbtwle
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10/28/2007 01:55:33 AM
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enginetamer
Member
Posts: 87
Joined: 02/14/2007
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Hi Dale/ I just saw your topic. In my engine experience you should have 140 PSI or over, in the cylinders. someone suggested to you about servicing the reed plates. Without good compression, the engine starts harder and uses more gas--a horrible thought! Sorry, but I thought you should know.// Paul
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lookin' for adventure and the next wild engine!
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10/28/2007 06:52:36 PM
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DaleHollow
Admiral
Posts: 606
Joined: 06/27/2007
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I agree, I finally found the knack of getting it to start almost to easy, I pump and repump the bulb she is starting good, and running perfect, I keep my crusing rpms about 2200. I know my compression is on the low side, Im assuming Ill engine hunt this winter ugh!
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"Come OOON Back............
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