03/21/2012 07:02:52 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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Part of me wonders if the isolator just bit the dust. It is more than 5 years old. If I do need to replace it, do you think the isolation transformer would be worth the extra $$?
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03/21/2012 07:33:39 PM
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boatlover
Member
Posts: 82
Joined: 11/10/2008
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Originally posted by: jtalberts
If I do need to replace it, do you think the isolation transformer would be worth the extra $$?
IMO yes. I am surprised that Kingscraft didn't install a iso transformer. All the other metal boats I have seen have them. My old Riverqueen had 1 and My Pluckebaum has 2. The transformer is a much better option. With the transformer you don't have a physical connection to shore power. All power goes thru it. Takes the AC power out of the picture as far as corrosion.
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1991 70' Pluckebaum Baymaster 10' AB RIB 25hp Suzuki
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03/21/2012 07:46:49 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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Originally posted by: boatlover
Originally posted by: jtalberts
If I do need to replace it, do you think the isolation transformer would be worth the extra $$?
IMO yes. I am surprised that Kingscraft didn't install a iso transformer. All the other metal boats I have seen have them. My old Riverqueen had 1 and My Pluckebaum has 2. The transformer is a much better option. With the transformer you don't have a physical connection to shore power. All power goes thru it. Takes the AC power out of the picture as far as corrosion.
That is what I figured I would hear. With 1 30 amp input and 110 service, any suggestions on what size? I have read posts that would say 3.6kva sized transformer. Any brands you would suggest or stay away from?
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03/21/2012 07:52:32 PM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Hmmmm: Although the isolater ground is NOT connected to the ground point at the engine block as it should be, it IS connected to the
hull which IS normally grounded in a metal boat. Unless you have some crappy connections I don't think this caused your pitting.
Before you disconnect any wires check resistance between the hull and the ground wire terminal on the isolater. From the looks of
the picture I would bet it's OK.
Likewise check the connection from the engine ground point to the hull. It should/MUST be good also.
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
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03/22/2012 07:15:08 AM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Isolation transformers are the gold standard. My 3 RiverQueens and the Pluckebaum had them. The 2 Kings Crafts did not. The Kings Crafts did NOT have Isolaters either and I did not have a problem. Neither did the other metal boats docked nearby. Isolation transformers and galvanic isolaters provide protection from external stray current. Normally AC current isnt a problem. AC can be rectified into harmfull DC by complex corrosion in a faulty connection but this is rare in fresh water.
I would suggest that you:
1. Check out everything electrical on the boat.
2. Eleminate the current isolater
3. DISCONTINUE use of the CAPAC system if you have one
4. Add zincs to the foreward portion of the keel. NOTE: Weld the attachement clips 6 inches up from the bottom of the keel so you don't tear them off when grounding.
5. Put her in the water and take readings. Compare your readings with other metal boats in the marina that DON"T have problems.
I am a big fan of isolation transformers but 90% of aluminum boats dont have them and have existed 30 plus years with no problem. An isolation transformer won't cure an internal DC problem.
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
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04/10/2012 03:57:09 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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OHB,
I am going to test the Isolator. Everything I reads says to test the readings on both leads. Does it matter that the boat is not in the water and I haven't had it plugged into shore power for sometime now?
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04/11/2012 07:51:34 PM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Here is a source for a test procedure for a common isolater. Make sure your meter is equipped with a 9 volt battery. If possible google your brand of isolater for the proper test procedure.
http://www.pkys.com/FAQ/galvanic.htm
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
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04/13/2012 08:45:28 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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Well, it looks like the Isolator bit the dust. I followed the test instructions and found that both sides were showing me a big fat 0. I read from earlier posts that Guest makes a good GI.
The good part: I hope replacing the GI takes care of my pitting issues.
The bad part: How do I know that it took care of my pitting issues?
Edited: 04/13/2012 at 08:46:26 PM by jtalberts
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04/14/2012 06:49:24 AM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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After you put the boat back in the water rubbing your hand on the bottom periodically will tell you. Also the rate at which your zincs are eaten away.
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
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04/14/2012 10:04:29 AM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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Just curious, what does rubbing my hand on the bottom show me? Just if there is more pitting? What should I be feeling for?
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04/14/2012 08:50:50 PM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Fresh pitting.
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
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04/15/2012 07:13:14 AM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Thoughts:
1. You had what appears to be recent heavy pitting.
2. You moved the boat from an unknown situation.
3. You have stated that the GI is failed.
4. This could mean that the failure was caused by:
a. Excessive stray current from a marina source.
b. Excessive stray current from an onboard source.
c. Old age failure of the GI (not likely)
Suggestions:
1. Put everything back together with added zincs up front.
2. Do NOT Install new GI yet.
3. Check new marina for any complaints of pitting or excessive zink depletion on
metal boats moored there.
4. Launch boat and have a good electrician do a stray current check when your
in the new dock.
a. No problem - install the new GI and smile.
b. Problem - Marina - correct or minimize - install GI
c. Problem - Your boat - correct - install GI
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Edited: 04/15/2012 at 07:27:50 AM by OLD HOUSEBOATER
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04/15/2012 06:33:52 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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Sounds like a plan OHB.
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04/15/2012 06:34:09 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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04/16/2012 06:12:44 PM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Make sure to put on 2nd coat of coal tar within 24 hours.
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Edited: 04/17/2012 at 05:08:13 AM by OLD HOUSEBOATER
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04/18/2012 07:59:56 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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I am so pleased to let you all know that the boat has been sandblasted and received 2 coats of topside primer and 1 bottom coat of Coal Tar. That stuff is just plain disgusting and nasty, but it looks like it works. There is some excellent news. The pitting was not as bad as it looked with all the crud and bottom paint still on it. The only issue point I see is that port side strut will definitely need replaced in the fall. It is corroded pretty heavily and needs to be addressed. Someone told me that Pluckebaum can manufacture the strut for me. Unless anyone knows of a place I can dig one or two up. I had a lot of help from my wife and in-laws as well as a couple of friends. On tomorrows agenda, I plan on getting the 2nd coat of coal tar on and possibly a coat of the topside paint. That sounds pretty ambitious, but I will give it a try. I would love to have the bottom wrapped up by this weekend. How long should I wait for it to dry before I take it off the blocks and sand the other places that need the coal tar? Do you think there would be any issues applying some parts on the bottom of the boat in the rain?
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04/19/2012 07:40:45 PM
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jtalberts
Member
Posts: 137
Joined: 11/23/2011
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2nd coat of coal tar went on today as well as the first coat of top coat. The 2nd coat of top coat will be tomorrow as well as a final touch up of anywhere that needs it of the coal tar.
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04/20/2012 06:39:05 AM
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Super moderator
Posts: 1520
Joined: 10/18/2002
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Depending on how bad the strut is, it might be possible to have the eroded areas built up with weld. I had the same problem and cut a slot in a piece of aluminum pipe and welded it over the bearing housing. Repairing the old strut will eleminate a lot of alignment chores.
When replacing the cutlass bearing go with the fiberglass cased instead of bronze. The bronze cased cutlass in the aluminum housing was not a good idea.
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OLD HOUSEBOATER
Edited: 04/20/2012 at 04:47:43 PM by OLD HOUSEBOATER
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