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Topic Title: 72 Drifter
Topic Summary: thru hull fittings and other stuff
Created On: 08/31/2007 03:08:48 PM

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08/31/2007 03:08:48 PM
Tsquared Junior Member Posts: 6 Joined: 08/25/2007	We are new to this. Just bought a 72 43' Drifter. I'm going to need to pull it out of the water to sand and paint the bottom and sides. This boat has many thru hull fittings, that were all replaced in 2003 when the bottom was lat serviced. Do I need to have them done again? The Gel Coat on the roof is starting to peel. do I need to have the roof totally redone, or can I just patch it for now until the spring? The bow deck has some rust spots coming through the paint. What do I need to do to the deck? Sand, grind, prime and paint? Rustoleum paint? There is a god awefull smell in the cabin. could the brown water holding tank be permeating this smell? We've had it pumped twice, and there is a layer of sludge about 2" thick that the pump can't suck out because it's too thick and won't move to the point where the suck out hose is. Any suggestions on how to break up this sludge? Insurance has been a pain to shop for due to the age. We have a policy in underwriting right now, but what if it fall thru, what do we do? Been looking everywhere. Thanks, Tom ------------------------- Dazed and confused on Lake Lanier
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08/31/2007 08:20:14 PM
BananaTom Admiral Posts: 968 Joined: 12/05/2006	Welcome Aboard!! And CONGRATULATIONS on you new purchase. BOAT stands for Bring Out Another Thousand and some times many more after that. It is a cool drug. Purchase the tank treatment stuff, and fill with water many times and pump and fill and pump, run and rock the boat to stir it up. PEG HALL should chime in on this one as she is great. I would only address the through hull fittings if the vessel is taking on water. Of, course, inspect it when it is on the hill. Take your time on the hill, it is easier to perform many tasks of name changing, cleaning, waxing when it is on blocks, rather than hanging up side down off the deck. I always get a headach doing so. When it comes to smell, pour bilge cleaning solution ( I use Citrus stuff) and fill and pump with bilge pump and suck and suck with wet vac. When the bilge is full of the citrus stuff and water, I run and rock it to stir it up. Most of the time the smell is there. Then run a ozone machine for a short time, like 2 - 3 days. Again welcome aboard! Review past threads, it will help you allot, and watch the responses here. There are a great bunch of folks here. ------------------------- Banana Tom Edited: 08/31/2007 at 08:22:25 PM by BananaTom
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09/01/2007 08:15:41 AM
graybear Member Posts: 174 Joined: 09/27/2005	Tom is right about Peg Hall being the expert on sanitation issues. She has a book out that you may want to get. By the way, she has been known to discourage the use of ionizers. ------------------------- Graybear '88 Holiday Mansion aft cabin 38 ft twin Volvo duo-props 350 engines Flaming Gorge, UT
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09/04/2007 12:16:12 PM
Tsquared Junior Member Posts: 6 Joined: 08/25/2007	Thanks for the replies. While it's on the hill, we plan on servicing the outdrive, sanding and painting the hull and, well, the whole exterior. The hull was last sanded and painted in 2003, and a stainless steel beach plate was added (not sure why, as the previous owner never took the boat out). What's a decent price/foot to have someone sand and paint this for me? By the way, the inside of the hull is as dry as it can be, no water anywhere, and the bottom was replaced in 1993. We plan to have a survey done on it while it's out, but we plan on redoing the interior after it's back in the water, one wall at a time. Will the surveyor frown on this? There are areas around the windows with rotten wood, which is why we will redo the interior. What are the hot topics for the surveyor? Thanks again, Tom ------------------------- Dazed and confused on Lake Lanier
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09/04/2007 01:49:51 PM
Skallywag Member Posts: 154 Joined: 09/22/2003	Originally posted by: Tsquared There is a god awefull smell in the cabin. could the brown water holding tank be permeating this smell? We've had it pumped twice, and there is a layer of sludge about 2" thick that the pump can't suck out because it's too thick and won't move to the point where the suck out hose is. Any suggestions on how to break up this sludge? Thanks, Tom Since I happen to be in a land based business that deals with the same crap, I have a possible soultion for softening your hardened sludge. Any brand of Caustic Soda in bead form. Get 6 inches of water over the entire sludge bed, add 50# (1 bag) of the soda, mix well to thoroughly cover the required area, and let stand for 1 week. I caution you to KNOW WHAT MATERIAL YOUR TANK IS MADE OF. Check with Peg to see if she knows of any adverse reactions to steel tanks. We use this method in concrete, fiberglass, plastic, polyethylene and polystyrene tanks without any harm to the tank itself. Since steel septic tanks are illegal in my operating counties I have no personal experience there. The caustic manufacturer should offer insight on their web site. This works great on land and it should do wonders for you. Last words of caution! If you do this proceedure you must completely flush the system thoroughly to remove every last trace of the caustic. While it will deactivate in 10 to 15 days, if there are any dry areas, that caustic will zero out any chemicals you induce into the tank. Lastly, I think this is a process that should be done on the hard, and it should not be done without eye and skin protection. Welcome aboard, and good luck. Edd ------------------------- Chance Favors The Prepared Mind!
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09/10/2007 11:34:54 AM
houseboat8972 Admiral Posts: 307 Joined: 05/05/2006	You can never imagine the magnitude of the odors that come from older toilet discharge/pumpout lines. While you are at it, replace those lines which will eliminate another source of odor. You'll be amazed at the difference!
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