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Thread: Electrolysis--

  1. #11
    Super Moderator OLD HOUSEBOATER's Avatar
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    If the picture of the transom shoews the size of the anode it was window dressing. You need a LOT more than that little bitty thing. All that being said you could have had a ton of anodes and your boat would have still been eaten alive. You will need a GOOD marine electrician to sort this one out.
    Last edited by OLD HOUSEBOATER; 07-10-2015 at 06:27 PM.
    The fries are cold so we gave you extra.

  2. #12
    Super Moderator OLD HOUSEBOATER's Avatar
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    The difference between Galvanic and stray Current corrosion is discussed in this article.

    http://www.boatus.com/boattech/artic...-corrosion.asp
    The fries are cold so we gave you extra.

  3. #13
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    Good article. I have one on my website too. http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/corrosion.html

  4. #14
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    As for good articles about this stuff, I found and read this page last night:

    http://stevedmarineconsulting.com/sa...-prevention-2/

    -- The way it's written was very easy for me to make sense of electricity in general, I really learned a lot from it!

    One issue that was reinforced was the fact that I do have an AC issue since I can't plug the boat into a GFI without tripping it. Another issue is that yes, DC rather than AC power caused my problems...

    So what I did was think real hard about what exactly could be causing a DC power leak? My bilge pump is not automatic, so it's never powered up. I don't have any wires dangling in the bilge, which is bone dry btw, I haven't added any DC options. I HAVE been trying different electric fuel pumps on the generator lately, but I know the hot is connected right, and it's not hot anyway unless I'm running the genny, which I hardly do...

    Then last night it dawned on me....







    I'll bet a buck my solar panel killed my boat... it's mostly unused since the power it makes-- 27 volts IIRC- never makes it to the batteries because the charge controller is bad. But it's never been disconnected. Sadly, I've never given it much thought. The wires are connected with twisties, and I'm not even sure they're both there now (these pics are 2 years old). Even if they are, the wires may be squished between the slide and bracket and rubbed bare. Either way, I have plenty of DC power within mm's of the metal mounting bracket...





    To look at where the mounting bolts are, the upper hinge bracket doesn't appear to be connected to my railing...




    But I only have the pics to go by for now. The lower folding hinge is connected to plenty of metal, but it's insulated from the upper hinge. But if the upper bracket is bonded to or is connected to my metal railing in any way, I think I've found my answer...

    -- and the slide is mounted to far starboard, right next to this, which is the worst corrosion by far anywhere on the SIDE of the boat....





    =============
    It does make sense...

  5. #15
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    Have you had any luck tracking this down?

  6. #16
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    Haven't done much with it during the winter, but I need to GET it tracked down. With the boat on blocks, I've measured 440mA DC from the hull to a ground rod. (I just noticed the ground rod is visible in the first pic, in the gravel area below the drive) And the batteries are still connected... I shot some rust converter over all the exposed metal before winter. Everywhere I sprayed looks pretty much the same except here on the starboard rear around those holes (the worst part of the boat, same area as the last picture above). That white powdery crust doesn't happen during simple oxidation, pretty sure that's electricity still at work.



    Last edited by Frantically Relaxing; 03-17-2016 at 08:56 PM.

  7. #17
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    Here is what I would do. Have someone keep the volt meter in hand doing a constant measurement. I assume you have multiple batteries. One at a time disconnect each battery and check the reading. Determine which battery looks to have the issue attached to it and trace back all the leads. If this battery is what feeds your house DC panel, monitor the voltmeter as you pull each 12v fuse. If the reading goes down for a specific device, trace out the wires and see what device it is.

  8. #18
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    Some how you are getting current on the hull. You need to eliminate that. JT's suggestion is a good way to track it down. It could be as simple as a piece of equipment that has a metal enclosure touching the hull. Or it could be someone actually ran a ground wire to the hull (bad). There are other scenarios, but you are not going to stop this corrosion until you find it. Frankly I would suspect the engine/sterndrives but it's better to trace it down.

  9. #19
    Super Moderator OLD HOUSEBOATER's Avatar
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    Zinc also work in fresh, however you need more of them. Mag anodes are a more recent product.
    The fries are cold so we gave you extra.

  10. #20
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    "Agreed" and "I know!" to all the above!

    Also of note about this, is that there's evidence this problem was a problem before we bought the boat in '06. In this pic, taken at Lake Powell the weekend we removed everything up top so it could be towed, notice the rust at the lower rear corner, and all down the sharp lower edge of the hull. That's exactly where all the bad spots on the port side are now. And there's no indication that any of this rust or the corrosion that's present on the port side ever began via simple oxidation. This boat's had an electrical leak forever.




    --on the starboard side, the hull IS rusting from the inside-out, due to some oil absorbers I didn't know were there, that trapped water along the hull edge. There, and 2 thru-hulls on the starboard side are the only places I've found on the entire hull with rust started by oxidation...

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